I've always been curious to explore this little dot on the southern most tip of Australia - also referred to as the Apple Isle (but often left off world maps...oops). What to expect of this place that is the nearest to the South Pole only after Patagonia? Even though our availability only allowed for a 4-day adventure, curiosity and wonder was definitely laid to rest. At least for now.
Remote,
quaint, wholesome are the words I would use to describe this quirky, heart
shaped piece of land.
We flew
into Hobart, rented a car (a must!) and spent our first two nights
there. Hobart is funky. You will find the second oldest pub in Australia
(The Brunswick Hotel) and rustic bakeries (Daci & Daci Bakers or The Pigeon Hole) mingled in with fine dining options (Garangistes, Peppermint Bay). Views
are abundant with a beautiful harbour and ocean surrounds. Overall, a very
welcoming city with a small town feel. The locals are friendly, rich with
personality and happy to see travellers venture across the Bass Straight to
this history-rich part of Australia.
As Mark Twain, the
American novelist, wrote in 1895 as he was travelling through the colony on a
lecture tour:
‘It is an attractive town. It sits on low
hills that slope to the harbour – a harbour that looks like a river, and is as
smooth as one. Its still surface is pictured with dainty reflections of boats
and grassy banks and luxuriant foliage… How beautiful is the whole region, for
form, and grouping, and opulence and freshness of foliage, and variety of
colour, and grace and shapeliness of the hills, the capes, the promontories;
and then, the splendour of the sunlight, the dim rich distances, the charm of
the water-glimpses!’
Hobart
also has the Salamanca Markets (only on a Saturday morning). For all you market
lovers, these markets will make your heart skip a beat - wood works, antiques
and crafts that make for the perfect souvenir, as well as home made honey and
jams. The market food on display will make your mouth water: sourdough bread,
home made ice cream, freshly picked berries, organic produce on the grill, wood
fired pizza and and and. The setting of these markets is worth a mention
as the long Tasmanian ‘piazza’ sits close to Hobart’s Harbour and in between
beautiful antique, yet renovated, sand-stone houses.
A 4-Day Itinerary – East Coast Exploring
Day 1: We explored Bruny Island. It’s a beautiful island located 30min drive south of Hobart. Jump on the car
ferry from Kettering and 10min later you’ll find yourself driving down the island's only road that takes you all the way from the northern tip to the most southern
point. A beautiful day on this island won’t leave you restless and you
definitely won’t go hungry. The island prides itself for its local produce and
goodies. Have strawberry ice cream at the Bruny Island Berry Farm, taste some
delicious cheese at the Cheese Company, and if you're into oysters, stop at
'Get Shucked' oyster farm for some slimy goodness. This island is also home to
Australia’s southern most vineyard and to finish off the sequence of
delicacies, don’t miss the chocolate factory for some home-made fudge. The island
offers wildlife as well – If you lucky, you’ll spot penguins at dusk, see
dolphins and seals; if you are REALLY lucky, you might even spot some whales.
Overall, a cute island that is well worth a day trip (if weather works to your
favour).
For
something fancy, stay in Hobart at the Henry Jones Art Hotel in Hobart. For
something more low-key, stay at the Tassie Backpackers, which is part of The
Brunswick Hotel. The second oldest pub in Australia is definitely worth a visit
– they managed to maintain the antique charm, yet make it modern and
classy.
Day 2: Salamanca Markets on the Saturday morning (see further down for a full recount of the markets), followed by a 2-hour drive north to Freycinet National Park.
Day 2: Salamanca Markets on the Saturday morning (see further down for a full recount of the markets), followed by a 2-hour drive north to Freycinet National Park.
For all
nature lovers and walkers, Freycinet National Park offers quite a few different
walking tracks (If you’re an energetic walker, you can cut all of the suggested
'track times' in half to get an accurate guess of how long it will take you). Note
that is does also attract the most amount of tourists in Tasmania so chances
are you won’t be alone. The Wineglass Bay lookout is a must (20min), which
continues down to Wineglass Bay (another 15min). Have a picnic on the beach and
take in the pretty blue water and crescent-shaped shoreline. We then continued
the long way back, via Hazards Beach, back to the car park. It’s a beautiful
and easy walk, and you may even see some adorable wallabies along the way. Well
recommended and remember that the indicated ‘5 hours’ means something closer to
2.5 hours.
Stay
overnight at Freycinet Lodge (located within the National Park) or find
accommodation (probably cheaper) in the petite Coles Bay (5 min drive from
Freycinet National Park entrance)
Day 3: If you’re up for a
hike, climb Mnt. Amos in the morning, before or after a breakfast overlooking the
beautiful bay waters. If you have a day to spend in this area with sunshine and
warmer temperatures, you’ll find an abundance of lovely beaches (try Honeymoon
Bay) or more walks (within the NP) that will keep you active and happy. If you
feel like exploring further out, there are a few different vineyards within the
area – Milton Vineyards, Freycinet National Park Vineyards and a few more
towards Bicheno. Note there is one thing NOT to be missed in the wider area,
which is Kate’s Berry Farm. Located just before the entrance of Swansea (when
driving north from Hobart), it is a beautiful farm perched up on a hill. Kate
makes her own berry ice cream and delicious pies, as well as jams (have them
with her home-made scones) and chocolates. The view coupled with some sweetness
– a must.
A few more ideas in and around Hobart:
- MOMA:
If you’re into Modern Art, then take a trip to MOMA – Museum of New and Modern
Art. You'll find the markets here every Saturday.
- Port
Arthur: A history-rich town that surrounds you with stories of convicts and the
founding of Tasmania as we know it.
- The
Tasman Peninsula: Worth a day trip to take in stunning scenery. You’ll find the
highest coastal cliffs in the southern hemisphere, some rising 300m above the
Tasman Sea! Organised boat trips are also available in this area, which allow
you to spot dolphins and seals.
As I
said, remote, quaint and wholesome. One day my walking shoes or cycling wheels
will take me back to Tasmania…perhaps the West Coast for a different adventure.
If you’re in the area and looking to remove yourself from you daily city life
or routine (at least for a few days), Tasmania is never a bad idea.
To
finish, I found this quote, which I quite liked, from a French explorer,
Nicolas Baudin, who in January 1802 ‘discovered’ (with his two small ships) the
nature and people of Van Diemen’s Land:
‘It is most extraordinary,’ wrote Baudin
as he observed the shores that line what we now call the River Derwent, ‘to see
that these dense forests, ancient daughters of nature and time, where the noise
of the axe is never heard and where the vegetation is richer every day from its
own products, can extend unimpeded everywhere; and when at the other end of the
world one happens to see forests exclusively composed of trees unknown in
Europe, of plants strange in form and various in their productions, one’s
interest becomes more keen and more pronounced.’
♥
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